So...........

[daleko]

Mar 8, 2018 17:31:06 GMT -5 @muttthemaster said:

Mar 8, 2018 15:44:29 GMT -5 daleko said:

Be REAL careful taking off the stock. Especially the screw. Some stuff could be hidden.

Today it's called back boring. Should be a smooth shooter.

L F, R M is typical of a "Northern" Duck, Goose, Pheasant SG.

Tool BOX? Jeez.

1947 eh. My fav year.

Not to be a nitpicker, but this should be in the "general" gun stuff section.
It's fascinating, but not political.
I hope the gun can be restored to near new condition, but DON'T refinish it unless it is absolutely necessary.  Refinishing won't do anything for its value, except diminish it.   And if you find it is a family heirloom of some sort, I personally feel it would mean more to whomever "as is" but safely functional. 

The Spencer Carbine my family has is about in this condition, except for a small splintered portion of the butt stock where the magazine tube goes in.    The rimfire cartridges were loaded from the butt.   The carbine DOES function perfectly, but I doubt any of us wants to risk actually firing it.
But dig the prices of original guns AND ammo...........

www.gunbroker.com/item/752937923

www.gunbroker.com/item/753688954    <--- Ours is in MUCH BETTER SHAPE than this one!

www.gunbroker.com/item/754349964

It'll die a death and we'll all move on. That's how this site rolls. Look at many threads here. Some if not many don't resemble the author's intent. Just easier that way. BTW, being perfect, what's a nit?

[Deleted]

Mar 8, 2018 17:44:41 GMT -5 daleko said:

Mar 8, 2018 17:31:06 GMT -5 @muttthemaster said:

Not to be a nitpicker, but this should be in the "general" gun stuff section.
It's fascinating, but not political.
I hope the gun can be restored to near new condition, but DON'T refinish it unless it is absolutely necessary.  Refinishing won't do anything for its value, except diminish it.   And if you find it is a family heirloom of some sort, I personally feel it would mean more to whomever "as is" but safely functional. 

The Spencer Carbine my family has is about in this condition, except for a small splintered portion of the butt stock where the magazine tube goes in.    The rimfire cartridges were loaded from the butt.   The carbine DOES function perfectly, but I doubt any of us wants to risk actually firing it.
But dig the prices of original guns AND ammo...........

www.gunbroker.com/item/752937923

www.gunbroker.com/item/753688954    <--- Ours is in MUCH BETTER SHAPE than this one!

www.gunbroker.com/item/754349964

It'll die a death and we'll all move on. That's how this site rolls. Look at many threads here. Some if not many don't resemble the author's intent. Just easier that way. BTW, being perfect, what's a nit?

A nit is a young louse or louse egg.
Don't you know nuttin'?
         

[bamorin]

Mar 8, 2018 15:44:29 GMT -5 daleko said:

Mar 8, 2018 15:25:31 GMT -5 bamorin said:

further investigation says this was produced in 1947. as Winchester gives ending ser # of a production year.

Got the barrels off today, ran the brass brush through them. Obvious this was shot with shells before plastic shot cups. Lots of lead came out, no plastic build up.
interesting pattern in the BBls. about every 10" you can see a step-down in bore diameter, before final choke is applied. Rt BBl is Mod, left is full. the concentric reflective rings suggest Cyl bore to Imp Cyl, to Mod. left bbl shows the same step-downs, in exact same distances, until the final step-down to full which covers approx the last 3" Full choke bbl had the most build up of lead throughout the bbl. Almost no case imprinting on the receiver. Not sure this was shot a lot.

went to the local gun store to get some supplies (didn't own a 16ga brass brush) They don't have brass wool in the cleaning supply section.......idiots. salesman said use 0000 steel........( marc thinkin to hisself he thinks....what a friggin idiot......making note to self, don't ask him if he knows a gunsmith)

My long shank screwdrivers are in my toolbox........my son has my tool box........gonna have to run to the hardware store and buy one. rear stock still attached to the receiver.

Be REAL careful taking off the stock. Especially the screw. Some stuff could be hidden.

Today it's called back boring. Should be a smooth shooter.

L F, R M is typical of a "Northern" Duck, Goose, Pheasant SG.

Tool BOX? Jeez.

1947 eh. My fav year.

Tool box should be called tool house, as i've as much in the stacked chests and tools, as a house would cost. damn near as big.

the wave washer under the stock bolt is broken, have to pick one of those up. got the action assembly all nice and cleaned, oiled, and greased in some spots.

doesn't look like there's much can be done about the high trigger pull on theses early hammerless designs. I may dress the area the trigger rides on the get rid of the slight bit of gritty feel it has.

was remarking on the barrels more to the point of how much machining went into a gun that started out with a retail price of about $35.00. As far as i know, Browning for example runs a modified bore from chamber to what choke they ended with. I believe my LT-20 shot bbl is imp-cyl up to where it ends in modified.

as most shooters would be rt handed, Rt bbl, modified for first shot on pheasant, left bbl full, for the follow up shot at a little more distance.

[Deleted]

Mar 8, 2018 18:19:49 GMT -5 bamorin said:

Mar 8, 2018 15:44:29 GMT -5 daleko said:

Be REAL careful taking off the stock. Especially the screw. Some stuff could be hidden.

Today it's called back boring. Should be a smooth shooter.

L F, R M is typical of a "Northern" Duck, Goose, Pheasant SG.

Tool BOX? Jeez.

1947 eh. My fav year.

Tool box should be called tool house, as i've as much in the stacked chests and tools, as a house would cost. damn near as big.

the wave washer under the stock bolt is broken, have to pick one of those up. got the action assembly all nice and cleaned, oiled, and greased in some spots.

doesn't look like there's much can be done about the high trigger pull on theses early hammerless designs. I may dress the area the trigger rides on the get rid of the slight bit of gritty feel it has.

was remarking on the barrels more to the point of how much machining went into a gun that started out with a retail price of about $35.00. As far as i know, Browning for example runs a modified bore from chamber to what choke they ended with. I believe my LT-20 shot bbl is imp-cyl up to where it ends in modified.

as most shooters would be rt handed, Rt bbl, modified for first shot on pheasant, left bbl full, for the follow up shot at a little more distance.

Just a short note:
I use copper wool.   Get some "KROIL" to use with it if you don't have any.

[bamorin]

Mar 8, 2018 18:29:28 GMT -5 @muttthemaster said:

Mar 8, 2018 18:19:49 GMT -5 bamorin said:

Tool box should be called tool house, as i've as much in the stacked chests and tools, as a house would cost. damn near as big.

the wave washer under the stock bolt is broken, have to pick one of those up. got the action assembly all nice and cleaned, oiled, and greased in some spots.

doesn't look like there's much can be done about the high trigger pull on theses early hammerless designs. I may dress the area the trigger rides on the get rid of the slight bit of gritty feel it has.

was remarking on the barrels more to the point of how much machining went into a gun that started out with a retail price of about $35.00. As far as i know, Browning for example runs a modified bore from chamber to what choke they ended with. I believe my LT-20 shot bbl is imp-cyl up to where it ends in modified.

as most shooters would be rt handed, Rt bbl, modified for first shot on pheasant, left bbl full, for the follow up shot at a little more distance.

Just a short note:
I use copper wool.   Get some "KROIL" to use with it if you don't have any.

I use bronze wool. have my own spinetrating stuff. Actually if you go over the little rough areas with the edge of a real penny, followed up with a wet (water) brass bore brush, the rust pulls out of the metal, then i use the fine bronze wool with my magic foo-foo oil. Gun is looking mighty fine, got everything functioning as well as it ever did. just need to hop back to the hardware store tomorrow to get a split wave washer. Then i can re-assemble it. But, my son in law will be coming by after he gets off work, and we'll discuss if he wants this refinished or not. Not worried so much about resale value. Don't think he's looking to unload it. As i said, his son is soon to be 7, hope to have him over pheasants by the time he's 11.

[Deleted]

Mar 8, 2018 20:08:04 GMT -5 bamorin said:

Mar 8, 2018 18:29:28 GMT -5 @muttthemaster said:

Just a short note:
I use copper wool.   Get some "KROIL" to use with it if you don't have any.

I use bronze wool. have my own spinetrating stuff. Actually if you go over the little rough areas with the edge of a real penny, followed up with a wet (water) brass bore brush, the rust pulls out of the metal, then i use the fine bronze wool with my magic foo-foo oil. Gun is looking mighty fine, got everything functioning as well as it ever did. just need to hop back to the hardware store tomorrow to get a split wave washer. Then i can re-assemble it. But, my son in law will be coming by after he gets off work, and we'll discuss if he wants this refinished or not. Not worried so much about resale value. Don't think he's looking to unload it. As i said, his son is soon to be 7, hope to have him over pheasants by the time he's 11.

Just tryin' to be helpful.  

I understand about resale value too, since I'd never think of selling our old Spencer (it's not in my hands yet since I'm not the oldest) either.  But it's nice to be able to say "You know, this old weapon is worth XXX dollars."



Speaking of worth, I have never heard anything from the pilot who wore the Blue Angels Flight Suit I have, and I kinda wonder how much IT is worth, especially since the guy who had it played a unique part in Blue Angels history.

[daleko]

Mar 8, 2018 20:08:04 GMT -5 bamorin said:

Mar 8, 2018 18:29:28 GMT -5 @muttthemaster said:

Just a short note:
I use copper wool.   Get some "KROIL" to use with it if you don't have any.

I use bronze wool. have my own spinetrating stuff. Actually if you go over the little rough areas with the edge of a real penny, followed up with a wet (water) brass bore brush, the rust pulls out of the metal, then i use the fine bronze wool with my magic foo-foo oil. Gun is looking mighty fine, got everything functioning as well as it ever did. just need to hop back to the hardware store tomorrow to get a split wave washer. Then i can re-assemble it. But, my son in law will be coming by after he gets off work, and we'll discuss if he wants this refinished or not. Not worried so much about resale value. Don't think he's looking to unload it. As i said, his son is soon to be 7, hope to have him over pheasants by the time he's 11.

RB-17

[Deleted]

Mar 8, 2018 23:36:33 GMT -5 daleko said:

Mar 8, 2018 20:08:04 GMT -5 bamorin said:

I use bronze wool. have my own spinetrating stuff. Actually if you go over the little rough areas with the edge of a real penny, followed up with a wet (water) brass bore brush, the rust pulls out of the metal, then i use the fine bronze wool with my magic foo-foo oil. Gun is looking mighty fine, got everything functioning as well as it ever did. just need to hop back to the hardware store tomorrow to get a split wave washer. Then i can re-assemble it. But, my son in law will be coming by after he gets off work, and we'll discuss if he wants this refinished or not. Not worried so much about resale value. Don't think he's looking to unload it. As i said, his son is soon to be 7, hope to have him over pheasants by the time he's 11.

RB-17

Never heard of it.  A new one on me.

[bamorin]

didn't have a "hardened" split wave washer at the hardware store. So I made my own this morning. if the 'fumes" don't dissipate in the kitchen by the time the wife gets home from work........I might be in deep shit ........again.

all back together......she shoulders perfect. looking down what looks like a 4 lane highway with a S/S, it's almost a sin to miss what you're pointing at. My best guestimate is it will center pattern about 4" high for me at 25 yards.

[daleko]

Mar 9, 2018 0:05:07 GMT -5 @muttthemaster said:

Mar 8, 2018 23:36:33 GMT -5 daleko said:

RB-17

Never heard of it.  A new one on me.

I've used it for years. 4 oz bottle will last you a long time. Biodegradable. Contains no phosphates or acids. Not a lubricant or preservative. It's been around since forever. Especially effective on BP guns. Eats rust like Pacman eats Mary. Best stuff on the market, And it works. About $15 for 4 oz, $45 for 16 oz.

[Deleted]

Mar 9, 2018 11:58:00 GMT -5 daleko said:

Mar 9, 2018 0:05:07 GMT -5 @muttthemaster said:

Never heard of it.  A new one on me.

I've used it for years. 4 oz bottle will last you a long time. Biodegradable. Contains no phosphates or acids. Not a lubricant or preservative. It's been around since forever. Especially effective on BP guns. Eats rust like Pacman eats Mary. Best stuff on the market, And it works. About $15 for 4 oz, $45 for 16 oz.

Sounds like you wrote the review I read about the stuff!   LOL
For my black powder revolver, good old soap and water still works well.

[daleko]

Mar 9, 2018 12:36:30 GMT -5 @muttthemaster said:

Mar 9, 2018 11:58:00 GMT -5 daleko said:

I've used it for years. 4 oz bottle will last you a long time. Biodegradable. Contains no phosphates or acids. Not a lubricant or preservative. It's been around since forever. Especially effective on BP guns. Eats rust like Pacman eats Mary. Best stuff on the market, And it works. About $15 for 4 oz, $45 for 16 oz.

Sounds like you wrote the review I read about the stuff!   LOL
For my black powder revolver, good old soap and water still works well.

Mix in a little ammonia. A little.

[Deleted]

Mar 9, 2018 11:58:00 GMT -5 daleko said:

Mar 9, 2018 0:05:07 GMT -5 @muttthemaster said:

Never heard of it.  A new one on me.

I've used it for years. 4 oz bottle will last you a long time. Biodegradable. Contains no phosphates or acids. Not a lubricant or preservative. It's been around since forever. Especially effective on BP guns. Eats rust like Pacman eats Mary. Best stuff on the market, And it works. About $15 for 4 oz, $45 for 16 oz.

Thanks for the tip. I'll have to get me a bottle. Does it mess with blueing at all?

[daleko]

Mar 9, 2018 15:22:20 GMT -5 @kelliers said:

Mar 9, 2018 11:58:00 GMT -5 daleko said:

I've used it for years. 4 oz bottle will last you a long time. Biodegradable. Contains no phosphates or acids. Not a lubricant or preservative. It's been around since forever. Especially effective on BP guns. Eats rust like Pacman eats Mary. Best stuff on the market, And it works. About $15 for 4 oz, $45 for 16 oz.

Thanks for the tip. I'll have to get me a bottle. Does it mess with blueing at all?

Nope. Better gun care through eco-friendly chemistry.

I might add a second tip. Try stuff from Steel Shield Technologies. Best lube on the market. Very little goes a long way.

[Deleted]

Mar 9, 2018 15:39:44 GMT -5 daleko said:

Mar 9, 2018 15:22:20 GMT -5 @kelliers said:

Thanks for the tip. I'll have to get me a bottle. Does it mess with blueing at all?

Nope. Better gun care through eco-friendly chemistry.

I might add a second tip. Try stuff from Steel Shield Technologies. Best lube on the market. Very little goes a long way.

I'll look into that. I've been using Mil-Comm products for my lube and degreasing needs.
Thanks papa.